2006 Aug 14 to 20

2006-08-14 Monday

Slana, AK  Hart D Ranch CG  - Nabesna Road trip

It had rained overnight, but the morning promised a pretty nice day ahead, and so it happened.

At 10:30 I left to drive the 42 miles of the Nabesna Road. All of the road is in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park and Preserve.

The first four miles are paved, the rest is gravel, but in good shape. There are three creek crossings, where the water is flowing across the road, but all are relatively shallow and as long as you keep momentum, there is no problem.

The road first follows the Copper River drainage and at mile 22 there is a divide and Jack Lake, the beginning of the Jack Creek. Jack Creek flows into the Nabesna river, the Nabesna flows into the Tanana River, which flows into the Yukon.

So for the first half of the road any drop of rain will eventually wind up in the Gulf of Alaska, on the second half of the road, the rain drop will wind up in the Bering Sea.

When I arrived in Nabesna at the air strip and operation of K-Air Service, the sun was shining brightly over Keenan Peak and the mountains further to the west.

Annotated Photo Album of Nabesna Road trip is here

Unfortunately, both K-Air pilots had left in the morning by land for Tok and Glenallen respectively and were not expected to return before evening. So, no flight seeing, but I spent a delightful half hour talking with the ground crew and some guests.

When three of them wanted to go on a short hike, it was suggested by a local Gentleman, that they take a rifle with them, just in case. They did oblige.

The return trip was as easy as the inbound leg. Only the third and largest creek crossing had a bit more water over it and the creek had drilled a somewhat wider and deeper channel, so the dip of the wheels was a bit more pronounced than a few hours before.

Back in the CG I met Klaus and Heike from Stuttgart, who are on a multi-week trip with a rented pick up camper. I invited them for a beer and we discussed their travel plans. It was a very nice visit.

2006-08-15 Tuesday

Slana to Tok   55 miles; 2 hours

Weather did not improve, it rained when I broke camp.

The Tok cut-off was in fantastic shape. Of the total 124 miles only 2 miles around milepost 62 and the last 16 miles before Tok were construction. Even the graveled construction miles were fairly level and not at all jarring. The new sections were wide, and smooth as a baby's bottom. Dirt on the rig due to the rain was the major bother.

1 1/2 miles before the Tok junction I had a puncture in the left rear tire of the trailer. A construction worker in a pick up, who had been following me since the start of the construction 15 miles ago, immediately pulled next to me and signaled a flat. I was doing about 35 mph at the time and pulled over immediately.

Fortunately less than 200 yards away was Grizzly Automotive Services, where I pulled in and had the tire repaired. While removing the tire one of the bolts got sheared off and they fixed that as well.

After fueling I pulled into the Salmon bake RV park. Got a nice pull through. WiFi is working good. Did not even unhitch, as I want an early start tomorrow morning.

Went to the Salmon bake, a family style restaurant and treated myself to the combo - salmon, halibut and reindeer sausage with beans, chowder, salad bar and fixings.

The big wood stove in the middle of the room nicely warmed my back.

Catching up with voice mail, email and web updates.

Only 55 F outside and a light drizzle.

2006-08-16 Wednesday

Tok to Kluane Wilderness Village and RV Park, Yukon Territories, Canada

200 miles; 6 hours

Pulled out of CG at 08:00. The road for the first couple of miles was quite good, but then deteriorated rapidly. Lots of loose gravel parts and frost heaves.

But it was a good road in Alaska, compared to what it became once I crossed into the Yukon. The border crossing was uneventful, just a few questions and I was on my way.

Pickhandle lake

Met a family from Annecy in France on their way to Alaska. They drive a real Diesel Landrover. It has a tent on the roof for ma and pa and the two children sleep in the Landrover. They intend to travel for a year, and later will visit the lower 48, Mexico and parts of South America. They have many sponsors for this trip and will write what the mother called "a report". Their website is www.land-trotteurs.fr.st.

Frost heaves country started in earnest. Even at 35 mph the frost heave tango was severe. I am glad that I got the Van and the trailer, because, as we all know, it takes two to tango.

In my rearview mirror it sometimes looked like trailer and Van were at right angles in the vertical line.

When I arrived at Kluane Wilderness Village at around 14:00, I had done enough dancing for the day and took one of their sites.

A lonely place and traffic on the Alcan is very light, a car every couple minutes. There is a restaurant and Saloon, albeit without beer. They do not have a liquor license anymore.

The place looks like it has seen much more business in previous summers, there are 20 nice cabins, none occupied today and at 17:30 only five of the more than 30 campsites are occupied.

But the sun is shining brightly, a big improvement over the last couple of days.

Early to bed, tomorrow will be a bit more Kilometers down to Haines, AK.

2006-08-17 Thursday

Kluane Wilderness Village, Yukon to Haines, AK    - 250 miles; 6:30 hours

Left CG @ 08:15.  Had the Alcan almost to myself. Only one five Kilometer construction site and then the road surface was fairly new and smooth all the way into Haines Junction.

Alcan Highway 50 miles west of Haines Junction

The Haines Highway is very scenic, almost no traffic and in very good shape. Two fog-shrouded passes and then downhill to the easy border crossing.

Back at Alaska time for awhile.

The last 20 miles are along the Kehini River and later the Chilkat River, where the Alaska Chilkat Eagle Preserve is located.

In Hitch-up CG by 14:15. A very nice place, immaculately groomed and administered. Good working pay WiFi.

Drove a bit around to get acquainted with the town. Bought victuals at I.G.A. and beer in a growler at the Haines Brewing Company at the fairgrounds.

At about 18:00 drove to Chilkoot Lake and the bear viewing area on the river.

50+ tourists and one medium sized brown bear. Poor fellow.

2006-08-18/19 Friday/Saturday

Hitch-up CG Haines, AK

Two days of R&R, maintenance, cleaning, laundry, local sight seeing and in-house movies.

Haines Photo Album is here.

Reserved seat on the Fjord Express to Juneau for Sunday, the earliest date passage was available.

Phoned Jean-Marc in Whitehorse and told him I would be coming on Monday. He will be away in Dawson City over the weekend, coming back late on Monday.

2006-08-20 Sunday

Haines, AK   - daytrip with MS Fjordland to Juneau, AK

At 08:45 boarded the Fjordland, a custom-designed, 65' high-speed catamaran. The tour is run by the Jacobsons, a local Haines business. Glen Jacobson and his crew Gayle Murray, a New England native, went of their way to show their guests a good time and as many animals as could be found. There is an "open bridge", so I stood right next to Captain Glen and we had a lengthy chat, where I got lots of information about the local economy and politics from Glen.

Our schedule was as follows:

Depart Haines: 9am
Arrive Auke Bay: 11:45am
Bus to Juneau: 12pm
Free Time Downtown: 12:15-3:15pm
Trip to Mendenhall Glacier: 3:45-4:45pm
Depart Auke Bay: 5pm
Arrive Haines 7:30pm

The trip is about 72 miles (statute) one way, give or take a little, depending on how many whales the captain is chasing and how many gill netting operations he is showing his passengers.

It was a full and rewarding day, the weather was good, with more sunshine than clouds overall. Again I was lucky, because sunshine on the Alaska coast seems to be at a premium this summer.

Juneau Tour Photo Album is here.

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